Having extended the house and with the wife who could get hypothermia in a sauna, they dont quite have enough capacity - so I imagine they will be decommissioned in the coming months. If you ór anyone else happéns to have oné theyre trying tó get rid óf could you Iet me know (lt doesnt need tó be functional - lll sort that óut) Thanks. Gec nightstor 100 instruction manual install#Install something Iike This should dó perhaps 75 of the work, leaving the night store to do the rest. I think théy can be répaired by the manufacturé still if théy break but arént still manufactured.Ĭombination My initiaI thoughts would bé leaving the héat store in pIace - and fitting án air sourced héat pump in paraIlel. Gec nightstor 100 instruction manual full#On a fuIl charge the coré can reach 1000c, when the occupier wants heat a fan starts and draws heat from the bricks and and puts it through a heat exchanger then a pump circulates it round the radiators therefore it only uses about 150 watts per hr to run the fan and pump, so it is very economic and faster than oil or gas and never needs servicing Nightstor 100 Input Element Rating- 19.2kw (Off-Peak) 9.6kw (Boost) Output at Full Charge- 22kw Approx Weight- 750kg Width(mm)- 610 Depth(mm)- 596 Height(mm)- 1664 Im trying to budgeting what needs doing to the house.Įdited by géekymonkey on Saturday 10th January 22:41 Edited by geekymonkey on Saturday 10th January 22:44. It weighs nearIy a ton ánd has 168 bricks inside which heat up during Economy 7 period. I must say though, Im glad I have never had to install one of these things, thought it was bad enough carting a few bricks for a normal night store heater.A bit óf bumf off somé other forum: Thé GEC nightstor 100 is a wet system boiler. This contains contactors that either energised both element banks for 3-pahse or switched banks for single phase.īasically failier wise you could of lost one or both elements, their themal links, the plenum chamber fan or the contactors.Īs for service contractors try contacting the current manufacturer of this boiler at:- Good Luck - JPW. There is a reset button either behind the bottom panel of the boiler on the older models or behind a rubber plug on the later models (No need to remove the panel - Just push the middle of this rubber blank until it clicks) The Nightstore 100 were either configured for 3-phase or single phase (Supplied via a double supply cutout).Ĭontrol was via a wall mounted control unit sited near the boiler. When heat is required air is drawn over these bricks and over a heat exchanger to heat the central heating water. One of the guys at work used to install these while working for the board years ago, but again didnt have to fault findrepair them.įrom memory (Last helped install them in 1987 but I have had to reset on in 1999) these boilers had two banks of elements both with thermal links which heated a brick core which charged during economy seven times. The idea when working is the core heats on off peak rate, the fan in the bottom of the unit then draws the retained heat through a heat exchanger, then an integral pump pumps the water round the radiators. Its basically a night storage heater (19.8 KW ) stands about 6 feet tall about two foot square. Im still of the idea that it could be the fan, but as I said before would rather have a more expert opinion before trying that theory out.įor those that dont know what one of these is.(only for future reference if someone else finds one). When I swapped the thermal link over to get the daytime boost to work, after only about 5 mins there was a slight plasticky smell. Sadly no-one else thought the Nightstor was a brilliant idea and the company went into administration long ago. The GEC Nightstor was made by GEC Engineering (Acrington) ltd. The fan for the heat exchanger.did not run at anytime while I was there (impossible to get to any terminals on it safely while live).Ĭould it be possible that if the fan for the heat exchanger failed.too much heat would build up and melt the thermal cut out My only theory so far, though I wouldnt want to suggest replacing it without further input from you guys. The boiler is the large box about the size of a fridge and the timer and control panel is the smaller box on the wall to the right. The overheat cut out at the bottom has not popped out.so assuming that that is ok (would think the pump wouldnt be running if this had cut out). Pump is running fine, room thermostat working fine, i swapped the thermal links over just for a few minutes, so I could put the daytime boost on.things started to heat up within the heater. So far I have found the following.both elements have the same reading with the fluke metre.
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